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Worn timing chain, bad valves or timing off?

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Yz426 with unknown hours on it. Runs pretty decent but kick start feels pretty soft compared to my other 426's.

If you hold constant pressure on the kick start at TDC you can hear compression escaping and are able to start the bike with out using the compression release.

Valves are in spec. Cam to crank timing seems slightly off. Cams are parallel but the crank mark is off by almost 1/4 inch. If I line up the crank mark, the cams are less than a tooth off of parallel. (Worn chain?)

And finally, is the timing close enough since it runs ok but maybe valves are worn causing the feeling of low compression even though lash is in spec?

This is a tough one for me. Thanks for the help.

PLEASE HELP! Carb leaks.

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Hello, I have been restoring a 1995 Suzuki DR350SE and mostly everything is done, engine rebuild and everything but the carb leaks fuel only when I am kicking the bike over.  There's a little hole for it to come out, and it leaks like 10 drops every time I kick the bike, then, if it starts it stops, any ideas? Im desperate.

SB5200 – volunteers Pooling Discover Pass hours

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SB5200 would allow spouses to pool their volunteer hours for the purpose of earning a free Discover Pass.

 

It is very similar to 2013 / 2014 Senate Bill SB5097 and 2015 / 2016 Senate Bill SB5205.

We came very close to passing those two bills.

There was close to zero opposition, it is just not an urgent issue so it keeps getting kicked to the back of the legislative calendar.

 

HB5200 link:

 

http://app.leg.wa.gov/billinfo/summary.aspx?bill=5205&year=2015

 

If this is something you support, follow the link, click on the comment tab and let your Legislators know where you stand.

Govt. proposing higher import taxes on our bikes

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Received this email from the AMA today.  Everyone should write their senator, and join the AMA!

 

 

Federal trade agency proposes higher import fees on certain motorcycles
Voice your opinion today!

 Take Action 

**If you receive an "Internal Error" after you submit your comments, please hit the "Back" button on your browser and resubmit.**

The Office of United States Trade Representative requested comments on Dec. 28 regarding its proposal to include tariffs on motorcycles imported from the European Union with an engine size between 51cc and 500cc in the E.U. - U.S. beef hormone trade dispute. The deadline to submit comments is Jan. 30.

The American Motorcyclist Association opposes the proposed tariff, because trade disputes residing within the boundaries of the agricultural industry should not be solved with trade sanctions levied against non-agricultural products.

Specifically, a 100 percent, or higher, tariff on these motorcycles is proposed. This will cause serious and potentially irreversible harm to American small- and medium-sized business owners selling the vehicles. Additionally, consumers will be denied access to certain models of competition and recreational motorcycles that contribute to the lifestyle and wellbeing of millions of American families.

Manufacturers that will be impacted: 1) Aprilla; 2) Beta; 3) BMW; 4) Ducati; 5) Fantic; 6) Gas Gas; 7) Husqvarna; 9) KTM; 10) Montesa; 11) Piaggio; 12) Scorpa; 13) Sherco; 14) TM; and 15) Vespa.

Should the availability of product be hindered through unjustified trade sanctions on European-produced motorcycles, dealerships may close, leaving countless Americans without jobs.The negative effects of the proposed trade sanctions will not only harm the motorcycle sales industry, but will spread through the aftermarket equipment sector, recreation equipment sales, the sports entertainment industry and further down the line.

You can do something to prevent this from happening!

Use the AMA's easy to use tools to submit comments to the USTR by Jan. 30 to say you oppose the idea to penalize motorcyclists in the beef trade dispute.

Make our voice stronger by sharing the AMA alert. Share with your friends on Facebook.

Now more than ever, it is crucial that you and your riding friends become members of the AMA to help protect our riding freedoms. More members mean more clout against the opponents of motorcycling. That support will help fight for your rights - on the road, trail and racetrack and in the halls of government. If you are a motorcycle rider, join the AMA at www.americanmotorcyclist.com/membership/join.

Take Action

 

 

AMA Gear!

AMAGearAd_ActionAlert_200x200.jpg

Join the AMA!

join-graphic-circle_eee.jpg

 

Build or sell?

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After being away from the sport 10 plus years I thought I wanted to get back into racing moto So I bought a 2014 yz450f last year. A few trips to the track later and I realized I had turned into the old guy I made fun of when I was younger who used having a job and mortgage as an excuse for not Jumping the doubles or flying through the whoops. Needless to say I have decided to take up off road.

My question is do I buy a bike better fit for off road racing and if so which one? Or do I build mine to be better suited for off road and if so what mods would YOU guys make? The bike has very low hours and is completely stock minus the spark arrestor. I like the bike and don't want to sell because I have already taken a hit but the suspension is a stiff and it feels like a bit too much bike on the tighter trails. I am leaning towards maybe a yz250x or 350xcf.

I am about 220 pounds with gear and a B rider.
I live in western Washington where the riding is mostly single track and would like to occasionally hit the desert or spin a few laps on the track.

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New bike break in procedure

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So my question is not so much about the procedure, what I'm curious about is the fuel that comes with the bike from the shop. I guess it's 15:1 or something right? I'm trying to get my jetting right but I wonder if that's even possible with this super rich fuel?

 

So far I've tried,

178 M / 50 P and OEM default needle (N3CW I think) in position 2. Bike just feels like it's loading up all the time and pings like crazy.

175 M / 50 P and "" basically feels much the same

172 M / 48 P and "" won't idle without the idle screw nearly all the way in and just feels like something is holding it down, also pings a lot. Oh and none of these settings does the bike have the power one would expect from this.

I've rode YZs that will left a front tire with zero effort, just touch the throttle and they are ripping. Mine currently feels like it's tied down to the ground and pulling a thousand lbs.. 

My AS also tested 1-2 out and tested it incrementally.. No change   :(

 

4400' and 40* outside

Leg pressure wearing pants inside the knee.

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Anyone else have an issue like this? Only my left leg, the inside of my knee has worn completely out, maybe because of the Titan Pro guards and my squeezing with my leg evidently? Right side shows some scuff but the left is blown completely out. I've tried to pay attention to using leg pressure and can't catch myself doing it at all so figuring out the real cause of the problem escapes me.

2002 cr 250 cylinder

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I have a 2002 cr 250 that needs a cylinder...I'm just curious if I should get buy an 03 or 04 cylinder for better performance. Thanks for any info on this subject.

PLEASE HELP ! KX450F kicks over but cuts out.

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I have a 2006 kx450f. I recently filled it up with fuel an the cap off the fuel drum fell in so i went to grab the tools to remove the tank an get the cap out.. (pretty much only thing to do!)
But got side tracked an a mate started it aan i immediate yelled to turn it off lol
So removed the cap an all sweet !!
Took it for a ride for 5mins an she cuts out.. so i freaked an assumed something maybe blocking the lines so i checked over the cap that fell in an its still 100% intact so nothing has flaked off. Changed the spark plug after i got home but still wont run.. it kicks over on choke an take choke off it dies. Or when i touch throttle?? Or it will start an run for 3 seconds then die. Please help as i got no idea???? Surely the cap falling in being ridden for 2mins then taking it intact couldve done much damage??
Cheers guys!!!!

04wr250 rear wheel on 96 yz250

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Found the rotor that came on the WR wheel is about an inch bigger than the YZ. Has anyone done this swap and found out if the caliper bracket will work on the YZ too so I can use the bigger rotor?

 

Monster, Rockstar Nos? What's your health opinion?

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Speaking of MX why not look at a big SX sponsor like monster?

What's your health opinions regarding caffeine and other ingredients?

Asterisk Ultra cell Knee brace price hike from $499.99 to $799.00 are they work it?

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Anybody remember the August 24, 2015 Trans World Motocross article? That's when Asterisk announced the price of the New and improved Ultra Cell as $499.00. This article talked about why would you want to pay a middleman $200.00 more for their knee brace when you can just buy the braces from them saving you money. It would seem that the company reconsidered their new lower price!! The address below is where I found the article. 

 

http://motocross.transworld.net/press-releases/asterisk-ultra-cell-knee-brace-now-499/#hEBMt8lYbpD7bDuY.97

 

Asterisk is excited to share the great news of a SUBSTANTIAL RETAIL PRICE REDUCTION on our knee protection systems!

Our mission, then and now…

Asterisk was founded for a reason—a reason we were, and still remain, extremely passionate about. Created in 1999, Asterisk’s focus was to supply a high-quality knee brace with functional protective features at an affordable price to consumers. In 2002, after years of design and testing, we felt we accomplished what we set out to do with the Cell knee protection system. The Cell Knee protection system was far less expensive than its predecessors and offered more protective features and adjustments than any other product, available, then or now. The beginning of our knee brace journey goes much farther back than that, though. Asterisk and the Cell™ knee protection system were founded and designed by Jim Castillo. Jim, also the founder of Innovation Sports (now Össur), designed and produced the C.Ti. knee brace back in the early 80’s. This brace revolutionized knee bracing, and quickly found its way into the sports world. Initially, people were seeking the C.Ti. knee brace to help support the knee joint from existing injuries, but it didn’t take long for them to realize that wearing these braces to help prevent injury, was a really good idea. After all, you don’t wait for a concussion to put on a helmet. This revelation created a market for preventative knee bracing. The problems were price and accessibility. The C.Ti. knee brace was a custom-fit, handmade carbon fiber devise—each one specific to its user. They were only available through medical channels such as doctors and orthotists, and the average price was in the $1,200/each range, depending on where they were purchased. The preventative knee brace market was born thanks to the success of the C.Ti. knee brace, but unfortunately they remained inaccessible to many consumers due to pricing and availability.

Fast forward to 1999… The inflating medical market and increased scrutiny and difficulty with insurance billing were making it that much more difficult and expensive to obtain a C.Ti., and thus the idea for Asterisk was born. We would design and manufacture a knee brace that was equally as good as, if not better than, the custom made knee braces. The brace was made more affordable, and was available in retail stores like most other protective equipment and gear. In 2002, under the Asterisk brand, we released the Cell™ knee protection system—a state-of-the-art, rigid and fully adjustable off-the-shelf knee brace. At a more affordable price of $549 per set (left & right), our lofty idea and years of design and testing resulted in a huge win for the consumer. The Cell™ knee protection system was a hit, and the need for quality, affordable knee bracing was filled.

image: http://motocross.transworld.net/wp-content/blogs.dir/441/files/2015/08/ultra-cell-side-600x400.jpg

ultra-cell-side-600x400.jpgThe mechanical hinge, sizing adjustment mechanism, and new full-coverage patella guard are the distinguishing factors that make the Asterisk Ultra Cell the number-one choice for knee protection.

Over the years, other companies have mimicked the Cell™ in look and feel, but failed to provide the mechanical features necessary to protect the complex knee joint. Today, these companies produce overpriced, glorified knee/shin guards that have flooded the market and dilute the design attributes that make up a true protective knee brace. They try to look the part, but lack any real feature of a ligament-supporting knee brace. At a retail cost between $700-$850, consumers are far overpaying for a set of these so-called “knee braces”. Asterisk prices have also climbed to as high as $700.00 per set in recent years, but that’s all about to change.

Asterisk still has the same mentality and the same general goal as it’s always had—produce the smartest, highest quality protection available at the most affordable price possible. We believe in our design philosophy, and are driven by our duty to share it with the sports we love in an effort to help protect the athletes and enthusiasts rather than just turn a profit. So, today we are going to make a bold move. Effective immediately, the new and improved Ultra Cell Knee Protection System will be priced at $499.99 per set!

How can we do this, you might ask? Direct to consumer sales. No more middle man.You know our products, and you know our brand. You don’t need to pay a retailer hundreds of dollars to order them for you when you have a smartphone, tablet, and/or computer right at your fingertips. Thanks to a volatile economy, dealers are less inclined to purchase and stock knee braces, which means they’ll likely need to special order them from us anyway. And even if they did have them in stock, why would a consumer want to pay an additional $200 more for our braces (or up to $350 more for other brands) when they can come straight to the source and get them delivered to their front door step as quickly as they’d like them?

Read more at http://motocross.transworld.net/press-releases/asterisk-ultra-cell-knee-brace-now-499/#pMFCrs4T3ZeVeO7I.99

FMF Factory 4.1 Slip-On - Missing Spring Weld-on

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Hey all....I'm installing a FMF Factory 4.1 Slip-On to a 2014 KTM 250 SX-F and there is no place on the muffler to attach the spring that binds the muffler and head pipe together.  It's like the clip was not welded-on.

 

I'm installing the same muffler to a 2016 KTM 350 XC-F and this muffler has the clip welded on.

 

Is this normal?  Is it ok to run without the spring?  Race planned tomorrow and need the FMF muffler/spark arrestor to race.  

 

Was this missed in manufacturing?

 

-pbody

 

XR 100 build

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I got a 97 xr100 a few months ago and have been slowly working on making it the way i want, was just wondering if anyone knows of a better kickstart to replace the stock one and if anyone has any tips on getting the carb dialed in as far as jets and where to set the needle. The bike has a fmfpowercore full system, k&n air filter and I cut the top of the airbox to open the ol girl up some. Any input is appreciated 1484366703949.jpg

XR100R swingarm and linkage questions

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So i ended up with a basket case 1999 XR100R that my sons and I are building together.  Well, they watch Dad do the work and talk about how cool it will be to ride it.  At least the 9 year old likes cleaning bolts on the wire wheel.

 

The linkage was toast with all the holes wallered out on the triangle.  Things were so frozen i tried lots of break free, lots of heat, and finally it met its match with a grinder.  The swingarm is in good shape, but I need a new linkage.  i have been looking around and see some things about longer swingarms or different triangles that give the rear a little lift, but nothing concrete.  I think the one thing I saw was fitting a 2001 to 2003 swingarm on a 2000.  I have been under the assumption that just about everything later XR and CRF is interchangeable, but I wanted to get some better info.

 

Will another linkage, post 99, fit on the 99 swingarm and frame.  Does it matter?  will CRF linkage and swingarm work on a 99?  what mixes? what matches?  is there really a combination that i can use on the 99 to bring it up a bit?  

 

any info you folks have would be appreciated.  I've looked at parts numbers but its hard to tell anything from that. they could be the exact same part but use a different shade of color and it changes the number.  So i figured i better ask before dropping money on parts and bearing kits only to find out what i have wont work.  let me know what you have

 

thanks in advance

 

Jay

 

 


CDI replacement

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Hi, I'm having trouble finding a replacement CDI for my bike. I have tried eBay, amazon, online bike part stores mostly anything online and have had no luck. I have a Beta 525RR 2009 and the CDI was damaged on a fall. I believe this year model resembles a KTM EXC 525 and has a KTM RFS motor I believe? Will a CDI from a KTM 525 work as well? Any input will help.

What kind of rider races a 150?

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I'd like to get some opinions of the types of riders that race a 150. I'm looking at purchasing a 2014 sx set up for woods. I have experience racing a 125 and a 250f in Midwest harescrambles. I'd like to hear from someone that races similar events on a 150. Why should I race the 150 and not just get a 300. To be more specific in looking for responses that are more detailed than it's fun.

Frickin Jim is Awesome

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Just want to take a moment to thank Frickin Jim for making the awesome
reference site CRF230 Mods on Word Press...

Clear, concise, chock full of info..

Many thanks for taking the time to do that for everyone's benefit..

2005 yz250 mystery parts? Help

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Just put a crank in and was just putting my clutch together when I saw these laying on the bench? Thought I had forgot to put them on the bearing the countershaft / sprocket rides on re-split the case and low and behold they were installed? Is there anywhere else in the bottom end these would belong? I even checked my receipt from the shop to make sure I did not order new ones and forgot but nope! Any help appreciated.IMG_1484369035.537072.jpg

tubliss rim strips?

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Are there any good, thick non-adhesive rim strips that can be used for Tubliss in place of the adhesive strips?
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