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Kill switch

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I bought this bike over the phone and the guy i bought it from had no clue what it all had just wondering if this kill switch that is on my bike does more then it seems ? ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1405472923.129934.jpg

Successful Electrical Repairs on my '79 Honda XL250S

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I'm very proud of myself. Since purchasing my '79 XL250S vintage dual sport, I have since discovered that the 6V electrical systems on these old bikes are notoriously fussy and problematic, especially when it comes to the lights and turn signals. Even with a new, fully charged battery and good connections, it seems like these systems are a bit wonky and unpredictable.

I discovered three main electrical problems with my bike. With the help of an online wiring diagram, and also drawing out my own simplified diagram focusing only on the parts that needed attention, I was able to zero in on the problems. Here are the diagrams:

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First, the front brake light switch was broken. This is the switch that works off of the handlebar brake lever, and operates by a little spring loaded switch that closes the circuit when you pull the handle to apply the front brake, and opens the circuit when you let it go. Problem was the tiny little plastic stem that allows this to happen was broke off, so the brake light just stayed on all the time (switch constantly closed). I found a replacement on eBay, and it now works as it should. Here's a pic showing the small plastic stem that operates the spring loaded switch:

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Second problem was that the previous owner had installed new but incredibly tiny rear turn signals that were really just useless. The signals used tiny bulbs like the kind you would use for instrument panel indicator lights. Add to that the fact that this system is a bit dim anyway, and you could hardly see them at night, and not really at all during the daytime. So I put on a new set of the flexible Baja Designs dual sport turn signals, and they seem to blend in nicely with the rest of the bike and are a similar style to the original front turn signals. Here they are on the bike now:

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The main issue I had with installation was that the original holes in the metal plate under the plastic fender were not perfectly round, and were therefore not allowing the larger threaded stem of the new signals to slip through. Here's a shot of the oblong, irregular hole:

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I ended up drilling it out a bit with a metal drill bit and filing the edges down just enough to let the new stems pass through. I dismantled the metal fender underframe from the rest of the fender before doing this so that I would not ruin any of the other parts or surfaces. Here's me testing new stem fit into the drilled hole...

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These signals came with the usual 12V bulbs, so I simply replaced them with 6V bulbs from my local auto part store.

Next issue was that the brake light was still misbehaving, even after replacing the front switch and checking all the connections. A little investigation revealed that the ground wire going to the break light housing was loose where it connected to the base of the bulb casing. I ended up soldering it to the outside of the bulb sleeve and routing the ground wire back through the plastic base. Reconnected everything, and that did the trick!

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The last problem was that the turn signals would not blink at all, they just stayed on steady. I made sure that the battery was fully charged with my new 6V trickle charger, but that did not make a difference. I have also read that sometimes the signals will not work unless the engine is revving, but that didn't seem to help, either. I removed the stock turn signal relay and took it apart to inspect it. Here is the relay before I took the cover off:

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It was rusty, and so I sanded it down a bit and sprayed it with some electrical contact cleaner. Here's a shot of the inside of the relay:

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My understanding is that there are two kinds of metals here: the bigger flat plate, and the strip of metal that runs across the back and folds around the corners. The general idea, if I understand correctly, it is that when voltage runs through this switch, these two metals react by bending, essentially working as one big contact switch that opens and closes against a contact point just underneath this plate. I suspect that the low and irregular 6V current, along with the aged and corroded state of these metals, kept the switch from operating the way that it should. I replaced it with a new, round modern style 6V relay, and all turn signals work great so far.

So, all electrical problems seem to be sorted! We'll see how long that lasts. Here's a shot at the end of the day, sitting pretty in the sunset, right around beer-thirty.

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TE570 Oil Plug

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What size of allen wrench do I need for a 2001 TE570 oil drain bolt.  Also do i have to replace the orings on the oil screens ever time i change the oil.  Thanks for the help.

Hand guards - whats your opinion?

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Hey guys/gals

 

For a school project I'm looking to design/redesign a set of flag (motocross) style hand guards for use off-road. My first task is to build a voice of the customer and build a list of specifications based on what the customers want. each spec will need a level of importance tied to it.

 

Rules:

 

I'll give a list of specifications that I feel describes what a hand guard should be, you can use them or add your own.  Each spec will have a level importance. the importance level will be 1-5 with 5 being the highest. Each spec is worth 3 points, so if you have 5 specs you have a total 15 points you can allocate to the specs. (this way everything can't be the most important.)

 

 

Specification                                          Level of importance                      

 

Shield Durability                                             4                                               

Bracket Durability                                           5

shield flexibility                                                3

compatibility with wrap around style                1                                                

low Weight                                                      2

low Price                                                         4
Impact protection                                            4

Aesthetics                                                       3

space used on bars                                        2

controls protection                                          3

puddles/mud/wind protection                          2

 

                            Total (11 specs x 3)   =      33

 

Thanks this will help me out tremendously since I will be getting real world feedback from people who actually ride! Please leave any additional comments. the more the merrier!

 

 

2012 DRZ 400 Cannister disappeared on my boke oops ...

1995 CR125 won't start

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Hey everybody first post

 

So yesterday I picked up this 95 Honda CR125 for $400. This is my second bike, after a 1982 Yamaha MX80 (which is for sale, BTW). The CR is in pretty good condition, and I thought it was a great price.The previous owner said it ran 3 years ago but it would not idle. I can't get it to start. It has a new FMF fatty pipe and a new water pump.

 

It has good compression

Good Spark, new B9EG plug put in today

Fuel gets to the spark plug

I cleaned the carburetor out well and set the float to the specs it said in the manual.

 

It has fuel and spark, but why won't the thing fire at least once?!? :banghead: It floods every time I try to start it. I have a shop manual for the bike but everything in that manual is so hard to understand and it is super hard to find what I'm even looking for so I thought I'd come here. I may just have no idea what I'm doing and this is all my fault but I need help.

Thanks!

Honda Electrical Issues

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My crf 250r is having issues starting.  I just checked the valves and they are in spec, and the compression feels fine on the bike.  I have to kick it a lot to finally start it.  But when it's running it runs fine with no issues.  Not sure if I have to get all the electrical cleaned, or if it might be my fuel pump.  Please help.

best year for stock crf450r steering damper ?

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just wondering if later years were any better valved than the 08 stock steering stem mounted showa unit ? Did any later years have larger pistons and thus stiffer damping ? I have a revalved one for my 08 that i bought as is after bending my original one (tree, woods racin) and it is way stiffer than the original i had. I am getting a mounting kit for my KTM and wondering if all of them are the same from 08 - current or if there are differences.

I know they are more "Steering aids" , not a damper that takes over even when going straight, but that is exactly what i'm lookin for. :)


Black Swingarm / Blacked Out Bike Pictures

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Hey guys,

 

Does anyone with a black powder coated swingarm or a blacked out bike care to post some pictures of their bike? I need to figure out if a black swinger is the way that I want to go with my build.

 

Thanks,

 

Cal

son needs new bike

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i am looking to get my 11 year old a diff bike we are switching from mx to woods he currently rides a kx 85 really well but i am looking at some type of 4 stroke for the ease of fueling on longer rides and am looking for suggestions he is a good rider and will prob race enduros and hare scrambles. i am concerned that he will not be happy with something like a crf 150 or something like that and nit sure how the crf150r would be in the woods any help would be great.. also any thoughts on a xr 400 for woods?trail riding i was looking at one for my oldest son..( and i kinda always wanted one hehehe)  with 4 sons we have lots of bikes but with switching to woods we are slowly getting different bikes.. thanks again

540 thumper initial tuning?

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Just finished the bike and she's running hot. The whole topend was rebuilt by DJH with a 540 kit oversized valve's and i've added a gen 2 FCR41. It is a D needle with a 186 main and 40 low.

 

How should i set the screws and clip, I have not rode it but up the block and back to check wiring and she was hot but ran good, I can only assume tuning is the issue.

 

Would i greatly improve my situation by going to say an E needle or custom option?

Do black 250s panels exist?

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Has anyone seen or know where to get black side panels for a 1994 dr250s? I can't find them anywhere and I'm starting to think they don't exist

What mods should I do to my Raptor 350?

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I have a 2005 Raptor 350 with a tusk extended axle, nerf bars, new front sprocket, race cut fenders, cyrca hand guards, and a white bros exhaust! What more should I get? I'm trying to make this thing race ready!

Salinas

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Monterey bay (salinas)
Anyone know any private land to ride in ? Don't have my green sticker

86 XR600R/XL hybrid gearing question

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Sooo..... I nuked the motor on my '05 650L. Traded it for a really great running '86 XR600R. The swingarm and rear wheel, however, are off an XL, year unknown, close to '86. I need to replace the chain and sprockets, but I don't know if I can buy a complete set, or need to buy the sprockets separately, because of the different rear hub. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm thinking if I keep breaking and having to fix these bikes, eventually I will become one of the guys who ANSWERS questions on here......


Yamaha SR500

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So a buddy of mine assigned me to work on his 1978 Yamaha sr500. He says he changed the exhaust after the old one rotted off and the bike boggs now, he has gone through the carb and jetted it but the problem is still there. I will update when i get the bike. Its not a full aftermarket exhaust just the slip on. Anyone faced with problem whether it be a different bike or the same bike? What could be the problem?

what can you do to a 2004 kx250 to ake it alot faster.

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just got a 250 2 stroke and its been a long time since I owned a 2 stroke. I race motocross and I run top 10 in the B class. I need this bike to be ridiculously fast. iv looked into pipes and Im between the p/c platinum or the works pipe with the factory sound 304.  opinions? and any other way to make it faster ?

KLX140L cam install HELP

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gonna tear down my KLX140 to install a big Web racing cam. Problem is, before I start digging into the head, I want to know how to time the bike after installing the cam. I don't have the manual, so I may need help, but then again, it's only a 2 valve SOHC, so how hard could it be? Besides the typical lining up the engine to TDC compression when cold, what do I need to do? I'm running a K&N pod with outerwear, then it's breathing into a hand fabbed low pipe (made by me) to an FMF big bore powercore. The carb is jetted, then was taper bored to 22mm. I know I'll probably need the 26mm or 28mm down the road, But I'll do that when I go 180cc and port the head. Just need to know how to install it and time it, then reassemble.

Front forks are noisy when I hit a bump

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2014-07-13 12.44.14.jpg Do I need to remove my front forks and replace the seals and oil?  I just bought a used Apollo 125cc and I am hearing a metallic, slapping sound when I hit a bump with the front end. It has the inverted forks and I have never done a fork seal replacement before.  I was hoping it is something minor but I don't know if even has any oil in the forks. Anybody out there with any advice or suggestion? Is there a way to tell if the oil level is right? Do these supposed to have air pressure in them?  Where would you add the oil or the air?

Indiana Riding

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Does anyone know of any good places to ride track or trails within an hour or so of ft wayne? Thanks

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